Thailand: Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

There are hundreds of thousands of temples covering Southeast Asia. They're all said to be spiritual for their own unique reason: some have relics of Buddha, some are gold plated, some served an important historical role...

It's impossible to see them all and it can be difficult to know which ones are worth visiting.

During my time in Thailand, Bali, Vietnam and Cambodia there was only one temple I went back to again and again: Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.

It's one of the most famous temples in Northern Thailand and is still frequented by local Thai worshipers.

It's located on top of a mountain about thirty minutes outside of Chiang Mai. It can only be accessed by a windy road built through the forest.

The center of the temple is a large gold plated chedi which sparkles in the sunlight and is surrounded by dozens of gold Buddhas.

Surrounding the chedi are areas designated for rituals.

There's a building where the monks who live on the grounds chant each afternoon.

                

During the day a monk invites worshipers one at a time to come into that same building to speak with him. He then engages in Ancient Chinese fortune telling. First, he shakes a cylinder full of long wooden sticks. Each wooden stick has a number on it which corresponds to a book with fortunes. Whichever stick falls out is supposed to reveal the fate of the person the monk is sitting before.

There's also an area where lotus flowers are purchased. The flower is one of the most important symbols in Buddhism and represents the transcendence of materialism. Many buy these flowers, walk around the chedi with them three times and then leave them at the temple as an offering to Buddha.

Dangling from the roofs of all the buildings are little golden bells purchased by worshipers to bring good luck upon their families.

Just before leaving, many also walk through a line of heavy brass bells ringing one after the next for health and happiness.

Thailand: Hanging with Elephants

The tourism industry in Thailand has really taken this whole "spend a day with an elephant" thing to new levels of absurdity. Now, not only can you feed the gentle giants bananas and ride them through the jungle. You can also watch them jump through hoops, play soccer with one another and paint landscapes.

The magnificence of these shows keeps growing, because there's an increasing competition between elephant camps to bring in the most number of visitors. 

         

I kid you not, this was the finishing product. 

The streets of Chiang Mai have one tourist office after the next offering their own version of the same experience. I chose the show at Maesa Elephant Camp. The whole spectacle's a bit overblown, but you'll get a good laugh.

Thailand: Hippies and Tourists

If vacationing around Thailand, Chiang Mai will inevitably be on your hit list. It’s the biggest city in the North and a convenient jumping off point for experiencing attractions such as elephant rides, white water rafting and visits to local tribes. Consequently, it's been transformed into a tourism hub.

The streets are lined with cheap accommodation, Western and Westernized Thai food, foot massages, motorbike rentals, visa extension services, overnight shuttles to Bangkok, bicycle and segway tours, outdoor excursions and general information offices.

Even though it’s second to Bangkok in size, it feels like a small town. The sense of community and laid-back lifestyle has attracted over 20,000 expats. You’ll find them hanging out in one of the hundreds of cafes offering WIFI, smoothies made with purified ice, organic treats and colorful bohemian décor. Westerners wearing their trademark genie pants and loose fitting tunics park for hours on floor cushions, in hammocks and at tables next to outlets where they read, Facebook and Skype with loved ones from their home countries. Occasionally they get up from their nooks to order a kombucha, coconut water or mint lemonade.

When talking to long-term travelers and expats you get the sense many of them feel they’ve found nirvana. It's common to run into people who planned to stay in Chiang Mai for several weeks and have been there months. 

They saunter out each morning with no plan except to find a comfortable spot to laze the day away. After a few days of starting up conversation with whoever happens to be relaxing next to you, you’ll get a sense of the non-local local’s scene. Roots Rock Reggae Bar is hopping every night of the week. North Gate Jazz Co-op is the place to be Tuesday nights when people from all over the world pour out on the street for a jam session. Ratmakka road has the highest concentration of juice bars and English bookstores. 

It's this "go with the flow" crowd that perpetuates the no reservation policy. Most hostels have signs that say “cheap room available” because they anticipate they’ll get most of their business from the steady flow of backpackers that land in the city without a place to sleep for the night. You can walk down any street at any time of day and land a bed for less than ten dollars (cleanliness NOT guaranteed).

Chiang Mai is an interesting representation of what is slowly, but surely happening all over Southeast Asia. Twenty-five years ago the city was virtually unvisited. There was one guest house, no travel books about it and the only way to get around was by navigating the local bus system. Now there’s over 41,000 rooms for rent and most offer their own tours around the city with English speaking guides.

It all begins by word of mouth. Then, Lonely planet and Frommers stop in to check it out. Finally, the transformation begins. 

The famous sites of Vietnam and Cambodia have similar stories. Laos was only opened to tourists in the 1980s and is changing rapidly. Myanmar known to off-road backpackers as the untainted gem of the region will inevitably be next.

Despite the commercialism, Chiang Mai does have some sites worth visiting. For most of its history, it was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom and has its own unique culture. 

Wat Chedi Luang built in the 14th century

It boasts hundreds of Buddhist temples and monasteries. Wat Umong was built in a nearby forest as a refuge for monks over 700 years ago. Wat Doi Suthep is the most famous temple in the city and is situated on top of a mountain with panoramic views of the skyline. Its gold plated chedi surrounded by sculptures of Buddha can be found on every postcard stand in town.

Wat Doi Suthep

If interested in seeing more than the sites; in really delving into the distinct cultures of the people it takes the patience to deal with dilapidated transportation, the courage to overcome language barriers, the ability to read a map, the preparedness to cope with an upset stomach, the willingness to forego Western amenities and a strong desire to live, love and explore.  

Whether you stay in cities like Chiang Mai for three days or a month, you certainly won’t find out how Thai people live by hanging in Western style cafes. So if you’re looking for an authentic experience hop on the nearest local bus to a small town and get ready for a wild ride.

Vietnam: The Gay Prince and His Fabulous Mausoleum

The 12th emperor of Vietnam's last royal family was a flamboyant man. Rumor has it he didn't even take interest in sex with his wife or concubines. GASP! I wonder why? 

Khai Dinh didn't play an important role in history. He was only in power for nine years and was hated by the Vietnamese who believed he was a puppet of the French government. Therefore, tour guides often forget to mention his one and only legacy: his fabbbuulouuuss mausoleum. 

Let me tell you, it's as flashy as the emperor's rhinestone embroidered ensembles.

It's the most expensive tomb in the country. Dinh raised taxes on peasants 30% just to fund its construction. It consists of two palatial buildings carved into the side of a steep hill in the mountains outside of Hue. 

The side walls are formed by the biggest dragon sculptures in Vietnam. The walls, ceiling and pillars of the main complex are an intricate mosaic of colorful glass and porcelain imported from France. 

While Khai Dinh's time as emperor might be easily forgotten by the Vietnamese, you surely won't regret taking a visit to the architectural treasure he left behind. 

Vietnam: The Tradition of Puppetry

Water puppetry is one of the oldest art forms in Vietnam. It dates back to the 11th century when villagers in the Northern part of the country created it to pass the time when the flood levels were too high to work. 

The puppets made out of wood and lacquer are like marionettes, but they're controlled from a large rod that hides underneath a shallow pool. The puppeteers hide behind a bamboo screen decorated like the exterior of a Buddhist temple. 

The little characters dressed in traditional costumes dance to Vietnamese music played by an orchestra of đàn bầu (a one-string guitar), gongs, wooden bells, bamboo flutes and cymbals. The soundtrack serves as the dialogue fluctuating between intense, cacophonous percussion and light, playful melodies.

In major cities, like Hanoi, the performances are being used as a medium for teaching tourists about Vietnamese culture. 

While the show itself may seem a little tacky in this day and age of 3D movies, it's a fun and easy way to pick up some facts about the history and traditions of Vietnam while you're there. 

Vietnam: The Morning Market

Every town in Vietnam has a daily morning market. Female vendors pull up on bikes and scooters around 5 a.m. with tarps full of freshly caught fish, recently slaughtered meat and perfectly ripe produce.

The variety at these outdoor marts is so expansive they make the inventory at your local superstore look measly. Not to mention it's all local, good quality and unbelievably cheap. A meal with a protein, rice and vegetables for a family of five can easily cost under $10.00.

Vietnam: Rogue Roadside Shops

This Vietnamese man combs his hair after a trim in the streets of Saigon.

He wanted to pose for me. I guess he liked his do!

Vietnamese that don't have the money to rent a space for their business set up shop on the street. You can get your shoes shined, your nails trimmed, your pet washed, your car fixed and just about every other service done on the side of the road. The pro is that it's significantly cheaper. The con is that running a business from the sidewalk is illegal. Rogue roadside shops have to be ready to pack up and flea at a moment's notice if word gets out a greedy policeman is on his way. You better hope that doesn't happen halfway through your haircut! 

Vietnam: “Happy Endings”

Westerners joke that at Vietnamese spas your massage might end with a "happy ending." If you're a white man you don't have to walk further than the nearest block to be solicited for sex. Young local girls hang out at bars, hotels, restaurants and on street corners in tight dresses and heels waiting for business.

They usually sit alone or with a group of coworkers scanning their periphery for potential customers. If you approach one you will be invited for a couple of drinks and some casual flirting. Regardless of whether or not the night ends in the bedroom they expect to be paid for their company. 

While times are a changin, most "respectable" Vietnamese women still do not want to be seen drinking in public for fear of being considered unworthy of marriage. You can assume if a girl approaches you with a cocktail in hand she wants more than to get to know you. 

Ironically, despite the fact that prostitution is illegal and disgraceful in Vietnam most young girls do it for the most honorable of reasons: to help support their parents and siblings. For uneducated women there aren't many job prospects in the country and it's by far the most lucrative career choice. 

Vietnam: The Land of Motorbikes

Most Vietnamese can't afford a car so they make do with a motorbike. The streets are a constant stream of old scooters coughing black exhaust into the air as they carry monks in orange robes, parents and their babies, school children, pregnant women, farmers with livestock, street vendors and just about everything else you can imagine from place to place.

There are no crosswalks and road rules are not enforced (unless you count the occasional cop looking for some pocket change). For tourists, getting from one side of the street to the other generally goes something like "one, two, three, RUN!" The drivers usually yield in time. 

Vietnam: Spirituality and Ancestor Worship

Hidden in alcoves amidst the chaotic streets of Vietnam you'll find humble altars with a bundle of burning red incense, several pieces of fruit and a sprinkling of change. For the last 2,200 years the Vietnamese have stopped by these discrete places of worship to bow three times and offer donations to ensure their ancestors will protect their loved ones. It is believed that if one fails to engage in this ritual their dead relatives will become ma đói (hungry ghosts) with unsettled souls bringing bad luck.

The Vietnamese enact this practice daily in their homes, businesses and in public. Altars are visited during deaths, anniversaries, the opening of a family business, the failure to get pregnant...you name it. Depending upon the reason for the visit different gifts are offered to one or more of the thousands of gods and goddesses all of whom have designated purposes.

The New Year is Vietnam's most important holiday. The whole country shuts down for over a month as people return to their hometowns to spend time with family. Preparation begins two to three weeks before the official day with stocking up on food, buying new clothes, cleaning the house and decorating. From the expansive rice paddies of the countryside to the packed corridors of Hanoi, you'll find banners of rainbow flags draped across buildings, canopies of lanterns dangling over streets and specially grown good luck kumquat trees resting in pots.

No where can the festivity of the New Year be seen more than in the city of Hoi An. One string of lanterns hangs after the next painting a rainbow zig zag pattern into the sky that glows when the sun sets. 

The center of town can be circled in about twenty minutes. It's divided by a small river that's connected by two short bridges engraved with traditional Chinese designs and lining the water sits french-influenced, dijon-colored restaurants and shops. The charming aesthetic has turned Hoi An into a tourist destination. You'll see more foreigners than Vietnamese women in conical hats riding around on bicycles, but the spirtuality prevails. The red bamboo incense lit to scare away evil are stuck into dirt along sidewalks, temples on every street are filled with locals meditating and as it begins to get dark hundreds of floating candles are pushed out into the river for the New Year.

Despite the commitment to these traditions, in the most recent census 81% of the Vietnamese population said they are atheist. For the people of Vietnam engaging in these practices is not about individual religiousity, it is about devotion to the well-being of their families and country. Their daily trips to the altars are always centered around the prosperity of relatives and fellow citizens. Their one month off to celebrate the New Year encourages familial and national unity as together the Vietnamese engage in a long process towards blessing one another with health and happiness.

The noise and pollution of Vietnam can be overwhelming for a visitor. If coming from a country with road rules, even trying to navigate down the paths crowded with locals chatting on plastic stools or crossing the street as motorbikes with food stalls strapped to the back swerve around pedestrians can be a challenge. If ever looking for respite from the hustle and bustle, just walk behind the vendors, duck into any building and chances are you'll find a quiet courtyard with two or three Vietnamese holding incense and wishing their loved ones well.

Vietnam: How to Safely Try Street Food

Trying to resist street stalls for fear of food poisoning can be torture; especially for a foodie like myself. Everyday you pass by seductive smells of garlic sizzling in woks, perfectly seasoned broth steaming in pots, freshly caught squid barbecuing on skewers, spring rolls crisping in baskets of oil...

It's tempting to think "maybe just this once." After a day of emptying your insides into a squat pot you'll never take the gamble again. 

It's a dilemma for travelers that like to have local experiences. That's why XO Tours invented the "foodie tour" where you spend an afternoon being zipped around on motorbike to vetted food stalls all over Saigon.

At around 5:30 p.m. a Vietnamese girl in her twenties swings by your hotel. You hop on the back of her scooter and fly into some of the most infamously chaotic streets in the world.

Your first stop is a noodle soup stand where you congregate with all the other members of the tour. My group was a rowdy bunch with a love of food and a taste for adventure.

Together we explored the entire capital of Vietnam in one night; even stopping in the most dangerous part of the city to eat plates of crab, clams and scallops at a seafood stall our local guides told us we couldn't miss. It was sooooooooooooo good.

That evening I got to try all of the delicacies I had been eyeing for weeks guilt-free. Most importantly, I no longer felt like I would leave Vietnam without getting to experience how the locals live. 

Vietnam: The Crane on The Turtle

The crane resting on the turtle's back is an important symbol found throughout Vietnam. It represents the codependency of the mind (the crane) and the body (the turtle)

Notice that the crane is much larger than the turtle. While our bodies are an important part of who we are, our minds are supposed to be the primary force in our decision making process.

Vietnam: Conical Hats

When traveling in Southeast Asia you can easily spot the people who have been to Vietnam, because most don a traditional conical hat. The large circular straw accessories are a fun costume for tourists, but an essential everyday tool for the Vietnamese.

Almost every woman from the rice paddies to the busy streets of Saigon wears one for shade from the sun and shelter from the rain.

They have been doing so for at least 3000 years. Images of the hat were found painted onto Ngoc Lu drums from the Bronze Age dug up in the Red River Delta in the Northern part of the country. That means conical hats were invented in Asia around the same time as the earliest systems of writing.