Thailand: Hippies and Tourists

If vacationing around Thailand, Chiang Mai will inevitably be on your hit list. It’s the biggest city in the North and a convenient jumping off point for experiencing attractions such as elephant rides, white water rafting and visits to local tribes. Consequently, it's been transformed into a tourism hub.

The streets are lined with cheap accommodation, Western and Westernized Thai food, foot massages, motorbike rentals, visa extension services, overnight shuttles to Bangkok, bicycle and segway tours, outdoor excursions and general information offices.

Even though it’s second to Bangkok in size, it feels like a small town. The sense of community and laid-back lifestyle has attracted over 20,000 expats. You’ll find them hanging out in one of the hundreds of cafes offering WIFI, smoothies made with purified ice, organic treats and colorful bohemian décor. Westerners wearing their trademark genie pants and loose fitting tunics park for hours on floor cushions, in hammocks and at tables next to outlets where they read, Facebook and Skype with loved ones from their home countries. Occasionally they get up from their nooks to order a kombucha, coconut water or mint lemonade.

When talking to long-term travelers and expats you get the sense many of them feel they’ve found nirvana. It's common to run into people who planned to stay in Chiang Mai for several weeks and have been there months. 

They saunter out each morning with no plan except to find a comfortable spot to laze the day away. After a few days of starting up conversation with whoever happens to be relaxing next to you, you’ll get a sense of the non-local local’s scene. Roots Rock Reggae Bar is hopping every night of the week. North Gate Jazz Co-op is the place to be Tuesday nights when people from all over the world pour out on the street for a jam session. Ratmakka road has the highest concentration of juice bars and English bookstores. 

It's this "go with the flow" crowd that perpetuates the no reservation policy. Most hostels have signs that say “cheap room available” because they anticipate they’ll get most of their business from the steady flow of backpackers that land in the city without a place to sleep for the night. You can walk down any street at any time of day and land a bed for less than ten dollars (cleanliness NOT guaranteed).

Chiang Mai is an interesting representation of what is slowly, but surely happening all over Southeast Asia. Twenty-five years ago the city was virtually unvisited. There was one guest house, no travel books about it and the only way to get around was by navigating the local bus system. Now there’s over 41,000 rooms for rent and most offer their own tours around the city with English speaking guides.

It all begins by word of mouth. Then, Lonely planet and Frommers stop in to check it out. Finally, the transformation begins. 

The famous sites of Vietnam and Cambodia have similar stories. Laos was only opened to tourists in the 1980s and is changing rapidly. Myanmar known to off-road backpackers as the untainted gem of the region will inevitably be next.

Despite the commercialism, Chiang Mai does have some sites worth visiting. For most of its history, it was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom and has its own unique culture. 

Wat Chedi Luang built in the 14th century

It boasts hundreds of Buddhist temples and monasteries. Wat Umong was built in a nearby forest as a refuge for monks over 700 years ago. Wat Doi Suthep is the most famous temple in the city and is situated on top of a mountain with panoramic views of the skyline. Its gold plated chedi surrounded by sculptures of Buddha can be found on every postcard stand in town.

Wat Doi Suthep

If interested in seeing more than the sites; in really delving into the distinct cultures of the people it takes the patience to deal with dilapidated transportation, the courage to overcome language barriers, the ability to read a map, the preparedness to cope with an upset stomach, the willingness to forego Western amenities and a strong desire to live, love and explore.  

Whether you stay in cities like Chiang Mai for three days or a month, you certainly won’t find out how Thai people live by hanging in Western style cafes. So if you’re looking for an authentic experience hop on the nearest local bus to a small town and get ready for a wild ride.